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围炉之“炉”，从前是炭火炉，如今是电磁炉。不变的是在氤氲的热气里，一家人坐着塑料凳，在木桌前簇拥着，必须起身才够得到对角线的菜。夹肉的筷子频频打架，火锅沸腾到锅盖跳舞了才手忙脚乱地关掉，身后的电视机明明开了很大声音，却总是什么也听不清。